Dry eyelids: a cosmetic problem or a sign of pathology

Today, skin problems are far from uncommon. After all, it, like litmus paper, reflects all our experiences, the consequences of bad habits, lack of sleep, stress, etc. But most people lead just such a lifestyle, are constantly under stress and try to keep up with the changes occurring at a breakneck speed . All this does not contribute to maintaining the health and beauty of the skin, including the eyelids. As a result, there are often complaints of dry eyelids, which leads to discomfort, aesthetic defects and a faster onset of age-related changes with the formation of wrinkles around the eyes.

The skin around the eyes requires special care and special cosmetics.

Features of this area of ​​the face.

The skin of the eyelids is thin and prone to the appearance of dark circles.

The eyelid area is very thin, several times thinner than other areas of the face. Compared to the skin on the cheeks, it is six times thinner. Blood vessels may show through, forming an area of ​​dark circles. Which is one of the typical problems for the skin around the eyes. With age, the epidermis becomes even thinner, and the quality of blood vessels deteriorates. The permeability and fragility of capillaries increases, which enhances the effect of dark circles. Also, this visual imperfection is affected by pigmentation, which appears due to hemoglobin breakdown products in this area of ​​the face

To correct this problem, you need to use cosmetics containing active components that improve the quality of blood vessels, as well as depigmenting agents, for example, vitamin C.

The area around the eyes is prone to swelling.

Under the skin of the eyelids there are a large number of blood and lymphatic vessels, which, together with loose subcutaneous fat, can cause swelling. Which is the second characteristic problem for the area around the eyes.

In this case, assets that improve circulation will help.

The most common ones include:

• caffeine,
• plant extracts: chestnut, licorice, ginkgo biloba,
• various active complexes based on peptides

The skin around the eyes is prone to dryness, sensitivity and irritation.

The epidermis of the eyelids differs in structure from the epidermis in other areas. In the eyelid area, the stratum spinosum of the epidermis may consist of only two rows of cells, this is the smallest number of rows that can be in this layer. In other areas, the number reaches 15.

In the stratum spinosum, keratin, a hard protein that provides the protective function of the epidermis, begins to form. Subsequently, in the stratum corneum (the uppermost layer of the epidermis), keratin forms hard horny scales, which are reliable protection from external influences. Less keratin, weaker protection - this is just about the skin around the eyes

The granular layer of the epidermis is completely absent, which is one of the reasons for the weak lipid barrier. One of the functions of the granular layer is the formation of lipids, which appear during the transformation of the granular cell into a horny cell.

Sebaceous glands are practically absent.

If you put this puzzle together, you get the following picture.

• An insufficient amount of lipids is not able to prevent transepidermal water loss.
• The amount of sebum is not enough to form a protective film and strengthen the spaces between corneocytes (corneocytes are flat scales that form the stratum corneum).
• The quality of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is not sufficient for high-quality hydration.

Thus, a weakened lipid barrier, insufficient number and activity of sebaceous glands, as well as insignificant thickness of the skin around the eyes, cause dryness and sensitivity. The quality of the lipid barrier determines dryness and sensitivity of the skin not only on the eyelids, but also on the face as a whole. With age, the barrier function weakens and the skin becomes drier, which must be taken into account in care.

The situation can be corrected by using cosmetics containing physiological lipids, which strengthen the lipid barrier. Physiological lipids include:

• Fatty acids, the most well-known source is vegetable oils.
• Ceramides.
• Cholesterol (in the good sense of the word).

As a rule, these components are used in professional skincare cosmetics, but for some brands, strengthening the lipid barrier is an accentuating effect, in particular for Cell-Fusion cosmetics (link is given at the end of the article).

The skin of the eyelids is vulnerable to external influences.

Another consequence of a weak protective barrier is that the skin around the eyes is the least protected and more vulnerable to external influences, including ultraviolet rays, which determine one of the types of facial skin aging - photoaging. Why grow old before your time?

The skin around the eyes needs additional hydration and nutrition.

Insufficient moisture is the main problem of the eyelid area, which has to be dealt with much earlier than for other areas of the face. Therefore, facial moisturizers can be recommended to be used from a young age.

In total, three factors of hydration are determined, the use of hyaluronic acid and other humectants that accumulate moisture, one of three possible methods, but not determining.

You can read more about moisturizing and different types of moisturizers in the article Moisturizing facial skin, 3 main factors.

The skin of the eyelids is prone to the early appearance of facial wrinkles

In this area there are areas of active work of facial muscles, which determines the appearance of facial wrinkles. The lateral part of the orbicularis muscle “does not sit still”; it is constantly at work, as it is involved in facial expressions. This muscle contracts when smiling, squinting, or with any facial activity in this area. It is no coincidence that this is where the first facial wrinkles – “crow’s feet” – appear.

These wrinkles differ from other types of wrinkles both in the reason they appear and in the care required. Anti-aging care depends not only on the type of wrinkles, but also on the types and types of facial aging, which impose certain specifics on the choice of cosmetics.

Anti-aging actives are used to correct expression lines. The most common include:

• peptides,
• various forms of retinol (vitamin A).

A brief summary of all that has been said - the picture is disappointing, unfortunately, we have reason to be upset. All of the above are the reasons for the appearance of early wrinkles, other signs of aging, as well as various imperfections.

What is the name of the eye shadow base and why is it needed?

The more well-known name in the professional makeup community is primer. A multifunctional product, it creates a thin layer between the skin and cosmetics, which performs both protective and caring functions. Acting as a kind of barrier, it prevents oxidation, allows the pigment to linger longer on the eyes, maintaining texture and color saturation, and helps not to crumble. This is a great helper for any girl who wants to keep her makeup on all day.

Skin around the eyes, main cosmetic problems.

Main problems:

• dark circles under the eyes,
• swelling, bags in the lower eyelid area,
• expression wrinkles in the upper third of the face.

Before characterizing each problem and giving recipes for its correction, let’s take a closer look at how the anatomy of this part of the face, which is hidden under the skin, works.

In the picture from left to right: orbicularis muscles, subcutaneous fat packets, blood vessels.

To choose effective care aimed at eliminating problems in this area of ​​the face, it is necessary to distinguish between the causes of swelling, dark circles and bags. For example, dark circles can be the result of various reasons, not all of them can be corrected with skincare products

Here are some of the reasons for these visual imperfections.

• Diseases.
• Wrong lifestyle, bad habits.
• Improper care, reaction to internal and external influences.
• Age-related thinning of the skin, deterioration of its quality.
• Vascular changes.
• Hyperpigmentation.

The reasons are indicated in general terms, and each of them can be described in more detail. Then there will be not 6 of them, but much more. For example, an unhealthy lifestyle means lack of sleep and overwork, alcohol and smoking, unhealthy diet, etc. The group of diseases includes diabetes mellitus, diseases of the kidneys and liver, blood vessels and heart. All of them are reflected in appearance.

This article discusses the reasons that can be corrected with cosmetics and a healthy lifestyle. Therefore, before decisively taking up cosmetics, you need to understand that the cause is not a pathological change, in which the time and money spent on cosmetic care will be wasted.

Dark circles under the eyes.

In addition to the above reasons, let us pay attention to those reasons that can be attributed to hereditary ones and which cannot be corrected. Dark circles may be visible because thin skin and a lack of subcutaneous fat cannot hide dark areas of muscles and blood vessels close to the skin.

In this case, the use of cosmetics is useless, since the circles are determined by hereditary factors. Imagine what you will see if you superimpose the above pictures on top of each other, provided that the skin is thin and there is no subcutaneous fat.

The main effects aimed at reducing dark circles can be identified.

• Improving the quality of blood vessels and capillaries. Active components used in cosmetics reduce the permeability of the walls and fragility of blood vessels.
• Lightening, whitening and pigmentation correction. Of course, if it is not caused by diseases, for example, the liver. In case of illness, affecting the synthesis of melanin in the skin does not eliminate the root cause, so age spots will appear again.
• Improving skin quality and tightening it. In this case, interventions should be aimed at preventing age-related thinning and improving the extracellular matrix.

The following active ingredients are used to correct dark circles:

• horse chestnut extract,
• licorice extract,
• various forms of vitamin C,
• arbutin,
• peptides.

Swelling, bags in the lower eyelid area. What can be eliminated with eye care cosmetics, and where it will be in vain.

As they say, feel the difference. Just as with dark circles, bags and puffiness, it is necessary to distinguish between what can be corrected with skincare products and what cannot.

If the bags appear as a result of allergies, diseases or due to the redistribution of subcutaneous fat (for this reason, a hernia of the lower eyelid appears), then in this case skincare cosmetics are powerless. Cosmetics cannot eliminate something that requires either medical intervention or is due to the physiological structure of the face. For example, if bags under the eyes are caused by a deformational type of aging, then it is unlikely to be possible to eliminate them solely by using cosmetics.

If bags appear due to excessive swelling, then these imperfections must be corrected with skincare products, as well as a healthy lifestyle (healthy sleep, healthy diet, reasonable exercise).

Puffiness occurs because the area around the eyes is covered with a dense network of blood and lymphatic vessels, and the basis is a loose subcutaneous fat layer. Therefore, the lower eyelid area is prone to fluid stagnation.

The main active components used to eliminate edema:

• caffeine,
• extracts of horse chestnut, cornflower, green tea, ginkgo biloba,
• as well as ubiquitous peptides.

All active components used to eliminate swelling should stimulate blood circulation and ensure the outflow of fluid from the eyelid area.

Skin around the eyes, correction of facial wrinkles and age-related changes.

Expression wrinkles are not a consequence of chronological, hormonal or photoaging. Depending on the activity of facial expressions, physiology and skin type, facial wrinkles may appear much earlier than signs of biological aging.

An alternative to injections may be the use of skincare products with a Botox-like effect. This result is ensured by the use of muscle relaxant peptides, which block signal transmission from the nerve ending to the muscle. Of course, peptides are inferior in effectiveness to Botox injections, but they are 100% safe.

With age, negative changes occur in the skin, and the area around the eyes is no exception. In addition to the appearance of facial wrinkles, the following changes occur.

• The epidermis and dermis become thinner.
• The condition of the already unreliable skin barrier worsens. The skin becomes even drier and its sensitivity increases.
• The condition and quality of the extracellular matrix components, primarily collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, deteriorate.
• Microcirculation deteriorates due to damage to the walls of blood vessels and microthrombi.

Age-related changes in the skin around the eyes can be represented by the following sequence.

• Up to 30 years of age, “crow’s feet” may appear, depending on the skin type, there may be dryness and redness.
• After 30 years, the nasolacrimal groove may be visible.
• After 35, dark circles may appear.
• After 45, bags under the eyes may appear.
• After 50, ptosis of the upper and lower eyelids is possible.

Types of primers

Traditionally they are divided into dry, cream and gel. This texture classification allows you to choose the most suitable product that will not cause discomfort and will help achieve the desired result. As for eyeshadow bases, they are available exclusively in liquid forms and can be colorless or pigmented. Further division, as a rule, occurs on a functional basis.

So, they distinguish:

• Anti-aging. Designed to disguise signs of aging, smooth out wrinkles and unevenness.
• Water resistant. They retain pigments on the skin for a long time, protecting them from high humidity, rain and other extreme conditions.
• Shimmer. Particularly popular nowadays, they allow you to create a delicate glow effect.

Along with those listed, glitter ones stand out. They are used with sparkles and glitter, retaining the shimmering particles.

Rules for caring for the skin around the eyes.

Use only special makeup removers intended for the eyelid area. Makeup is removed using cotton pads. When choosing cleansing cosmetics, you need to keep in mind that foaming products that come into contact with the eyes can cause irritation.

Use cosmetics intended only for the eye area.

The cream is applied to the fixed eyelid (unless there are other recommendations in the instructions).

Cosmetics are applied along massage lines: for the lower eyelid - from the outer corner of the eye to the nose, for the upper eyelid - from the nose to the outer corner of the eye. When applying the cream, it is permissible to do a light massage. In this case, the cream is applied with light, patting movements. This technique provides a light drainage effect.

The cream is applied no later than 1 - 2 hours before bedtime, observing the dosage. Otherwise, swelling may appear in the morning. The best time for evening care is from 7 to 10 pm.

When the sun is active, wear sunglasses that protect not only your eyes, but also the eyelid area.

The arsenal of eye care cosmetics is quite wide. If the effect of the cream is not enough, then you can use serums or masks that have a higher concentration of active ingredients.

As a rule, it is masks that contain the maximum concentration of active ingredients and, if necessary, can be used as an SOS remedy when there is no time, but there is a need to look perfect.

The Novacutan brand is known as a manufacturer of anti-aging drugs for injection cosmetology, which indicates the quality of its products.

For home care, this brand offers the Eye Filler Mask Pack Novacutan. The mask contains: peptides, moisturizers, plant extracts, antioxidants and physiological lipids. The mask has an accentuating anti-aging effect.

Top best bases for oily eyelids

PREP + PRIME 24-HOUR EXTEND EYE BASE from MAC

A long-lasting base for the eyes, it has a light texture, helps maintain the color of eye shadow and prevents it from creasing.

Pro-Prime Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base by NARS

It has a creamy texture and contains extracts of seaweed and rice grains. Apply this primer with an applicator and then blend with your fingertips.

Fixateur by Vivienne Sabo

The eyeshadow base is odorless, enhances pigment and allows your makeup to stay on oily eyelids for as long as you want.

24 Hour Photo Finish Shadow Primer by Smashbox

A long-lasting light pink eye shadow base. Easily and evenly distributed over the eyelid. Very economical to apply.

What can be replaced

Those who often wear heavy eye makeup are advised to purchase professional cosmetics. It is used economically, while solving a whole range of problems: from simply increasing the durability of pigments to preventing thinning and aging of the skin. If you are new to the cosmetic world and rarely use eyeshadow, there is no point in buying an expensive base. Most likely, you will simply throw it away when the expiration date expires. But what can we do? Replace the primer with a product that you probably have in your makeup bag! What can you use instead of base?

• loose powder;
• white or nude pencils with a light texture;
• cream sticks in beige shades;
• light concealers.

Each listed product helps fix the makeup and avoid oxidation.

Stages of development

Regardless of the observed causes of chalazion, it always develops according to the standard pattern. Ophthalmologists distinguish 3 main stages in the formation of a chalazion on the eye:

1. Zero stage
   , blockage of the duct outlet. There are no external manifestations, since the size of the neoplasm does not exceed 2 mm in diameter. At this stage, sebaceous secretion accumulates inside the gland, inflammation is absent or mild, and there is no pain. Pathology at this stage is discovered accidentally during cleansing of the eyelid, applying makeup and other manipulations.
2. Stretching of the meibomian gland
   with the formation of a noticeable hailstone on the eyelid. The sebaceous secretion thickens, the chalazion increases in size and becomes harder. Due to the pressure created by the neoplasm on surrounding tissues, minor pain and discomfort in the eye may occur when trying to palpate the pea. When an infection occurs, swelling and slight hyperemia of the eyelid over the neoplasm may be observed. The size of the chalazion at this stage does not exceed 3-4 mm.
3. Encapsulation of the chalazion
   , further growth of the hailstone or its spontaneous resorption.

Sometimes, in the absence of therapy and the persistence of the factors that influenced the formation of a tumor in the eye, the growth process of the chalazion is complicated by intense inflammation. At the same time, in addition to fatty secretion, purulent exudate can accumulate in the capsule. It can melt the shell of the chalazion and lead to spontaneous leakage of its contents onto the outer surface of the eyelid or, more often, onto the cornea of ​​the eye. In the first case, a lesion remains at the site of the neoplasm, a fistula is formed - a duct, which periodically opens, and the contents of the gland emerge from it. In the second case, in addition to the formation of a fistula, there is a possibility of infection spreading to the membranes of the eye.

What is a chalazion?

In ophthalmology, a chalazion of the eyelid is a benign tumor-like growth

. It is a capsule closed in the thickness of the mobile eyelid, filled with sebaceous secretion, sometimes pus and dead particles of the epithelium. Upon closer examination, it turns out that a chalazion is an inflamed meibomian gland, connected to the surface by thin ducts that open onto the mucous membranes of the eyelids in contact with the eye. These structures are located in the cartilage of the lower and upper eyelids and are responsible for protecting the cornea. They secrete a secretion that forms a protective film that prevents the evaporation of tears and reduces friction between the eyelid and the surface of the eye.

Under certain conditions, these ducts become blocked and a chalazion begins to develop. First, the secretion it produces accumulates in the gland inside the eyelid, then it stretches its walls, which provokes low-grade inflammation. At the initial stage, the process looks like barley, but is located not along the edge of the eyelid, but at some distance from it. Unlike stye, a chalazion of the eye is not accompanied by pain and looks like a normal flesh-colored lump on the outside and grayish on the side of the mucous membrane in contact with the eye.

Despite the absence of an acute inflammatory process, the chalazion cavity may contain purulent exudate.

Children and adults over 35 years of age are at greater risk of finding out what a chalazion is on the eye. This pathology occurs extremely rarely in adolescents and young adults. When making a diagnosis, the doctor will have to differentiate chalazion from barley, uveitis, keratitis and other inflammatory diseases on the eyelids and outer membranes of the eye.