Hyaluronic acid. What is this? Effectiveness for facial skin

Hyaluronic acid is secretly known as the guardian of beauty. In youth, the body synthesizes it on its own. The acid is found in the cells and tissues of the body and is part of the nervous, epithelial and connective tissue. The largest amount of hyaluronic acid is concentrated in the skin. It ensures its smoothness, elasticity and youth.

Hyaluronic acid is

Hyaluronic acid is nothing more than a polysaccharide molecule consisting of many identical fragments. Depending on their quantity, a chain of different lengths and masses is formed - high molecular weight and low molecular weight.

Both forms are capable of retaining water, forming a jelly-like mass, but have a number of differences in biological action:

  • Low molecular weight. Has an anti-inflammatory effect. Used in the treatment of burns, psoriasis, trophic ulcers. As one of the components it is included in creams and tonics, as it has the ability to penetrate the dermis.
  • High molecular weight. Promotes the formation of new collagen and elastin fibers. One molecule of the substance can hold up to 500 molecules of water, which gives the skin elasticity and restores its tone. The main areas of application of the high-molecular form are ophthalmology and injection cosmetology.

The reproduction of hyaluronic acid in the body is affected by such negative factors as age, unstable psychological state, incorrectly formulated diet, nicotine addiction, and high solar activity in the region. Each of them helps to reduce the production of hyaluronic acid, as well as disrupt its activity. Injuries, inflammatory processes, and skin damage contribute to more active production of hyaluronic acid.

The main method for producing acid today is biotechnological synthesis. It is based on growing microorganisms on a specific type of nutrient medium - wheat broth. The resulting drug is almost identical in composition to the acid that is synthesized by the human body, which makes it possible not to cause harm when using it.

Hyaluronic acid injections are an effective “weapon” in the fight for beauty and youth.

Hyaluronic acid has firmly taken its place in the workplace of cosmetologists. Without it, it is now difficult to imagine the work of a good beauty salon. And, indeed, hyaluronic acid is rightfully considered an effective and working method of preserving youth and beauty.

Facts about collagen

Collagen is a protein that is responsible for the structure of our skin, hair and nails. Collagen is formed in the body from procollagen and is a spiral of three chains that overlap each other and twist around an elongated straight axis, resembling springs. The firmness, elasticity and smoothness of the skin in youth are ensured due to the fact that the fibers formed by collagen have the ability to stretch and return to their original shape. A thick layer of collagen gives the skin firmness and elasticity.

Possessing incredible elasticity and strength, collagen is significantly different in functionality from other types of protein. For example, it can be located both inside and outside the smallest and at the same time the most essential part of our body - the cell. Collagen fibers are indispensable in the external structure of cells, but they also take part in the internal structure of some of them. Collagen protein is unique because it contains the amino acids hydroxylysine and hydroxyproline.

Collagen interested scientists and doctors in the middle of the 20th century. Scientists have found that it helps the revival of skin cells, allowing new cells to reach the surface of the skin faster. At the same time, it became known that skin aging largely depends on a decrease in collagen synthesis in the body. We see the result of this process not only on the face in the form of wrinkles, loss of firmness and elasticity - the condition of hair, nails, and muscles also worsens, joint pain appears, the elasticity of blood vessels decreases, and cellulite forms. But first of all, the dermis suffers, the framework of which is collagen. It’s not for nothing that this word is translated from Greek as “giving birth glue” (kollо – “glue”).

To maintain the tissues of our body, collagen works shoulder to shoulder with elastin. It is mainly collagen that gives our body its strong shape, but this strength of tissue must be “diluted” with elastin so that the tissue remains flexible and elastic. Thus, the combination of collagen and elastin is simply irreplaceable, since even blood vessels need these proteins.

Hyaluronic acid - truth and myths

Hyaluronate is surrounded by many rumors and speculations. Some consider it a panacea for all ills, cosmetic defects and age-related changes (which is still not true), others are exaggeratedly wary of injections. There are many misconceptions around drugs and products based on it, which we will try to debunk:

1. Hyaluronic acid is addictive. Over time, hyaluronic acid injections have to be done more and more often. If we can talk about any kind of addiction, it is only to our fresh and good appearance. Patients note improved skin quality, its elasticity and moisture, tightened contour or returned volumes - no one wants to lose the feeling of confidence in their own beauty. The acid itself, after the expiration of the drug, disintegrates naturally without any consequences for the body. Only a new course of injections can help here, taking into account the age and characteristics of a person’s skin. As for the frequency, for example, of mesotherapy or biorevitalization, then, of course, every year (given the decreasing level of production of the skin’s own acid) the interval between procedures may become shorter. With the onset of 30 years of age, it becomes increasingly difficult for the dermis to produce hyaluronic acid, especially if the face is regularly exposed to ultraviolet radiation, with which, as we wrote earlier, it is “not friendly”; 2. Creams and serums with hyaluronic acid are equally effective with injections. Restore volume to the cheeks and cheekbones, make lips plump, tighten the oval of the face, help produce collagen - only injectable “hyaluronic acid” can do all this. Manufacturers claim that large hyaluronate molecules are crushed so that they penetrate deep into the skin. Some experts suggest these words are a marketing ploy. When used externally, it is also good - creating a barrier and retaining moisture on the surface, but still you cannot expect the same result as with injections. 3. “Botox” (that is, drugs based on botulinum toxin) and hyaluronic acid work the same way and are interchangeable. This is completely wrong! Both the action and effect of these drugs are completely different. They are used for different purposes, but are often combined (to eliminate deep wrinkles, for example, on the forehead, the muscles are first “immobilized” with drugs based on botulinum toxin, and then the missing volume of tissue is filled with hyaluronate injections); 4. Hyaluronic acid injections remove moisture from the skin. Hyaluronic acid acts in the opposite way - it retains water in the skin, stimulates all metabolic processes, the production of collagen and elastin.

How to choose cosmetics

First of all, you need to pay attention to the composition. In creams, gels and serums, hyaluronic acid can be contained in the form of a salt - sodium hyaluronate - and is listed under the name Sodium Hyaluronate. There are brands that produce cosmetics with hyaluronic acid (contains hyaluronic acid), it is considered more effective.

Before buying a product, study the composition

It is worth paying attention to the accompanying substances that are also contained in the cream. If the composition contains high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, it is desirable that it be accompanied by water-retaining components such as lactic acid, polysaccharides, urea, citric acid and vitamins. They, unlike large molecules of hyaluronic acid, can penetrate deep into the dermis and absorb water from the environment, providing deep hydration. Hyaluronic cosmetics from reputable brands include a UV filter.

It matters where hyaluronic acid is on the list of ingredients. If it is at the beginning or in the middle of the list, it means that its concentration is sufficient to effectively affect the skin. If at the end, it means that its amount is negligible, and you are unlikely to see a noticeable result.

Avoid cosmetics that contain mineral oil. It creates a film on the skin that does not allow air and moisture to pass through.

Cosmetic preparations containing low molecular weight hyaluronic acid are expensive. If you buy such products at a low price, be prepared for the fact that they may not be as effective as the manufacturer claims.

Range of procedures using hyaluronic acid

Procedure name

Its essence

Who is it shown to?

Mesotherapy Introduction of combined preparations (multiple injections) containing not only hyaluronic acid, but also peptides, vitamins, antioxidants and amino acids. For pigmentation, various defects and scars, severe dry skin, its withering, as a means of preventing age-related changes.
Biorevitalization Shallow microinjections designed to eliminate facial wrinkles, dry skin and some changes in the oval, improve skin turgor and tone. To delay age-related changes on the face, prolong youth, maintain moisture levels in the skin and stimulate regeneration processes.
Contour plastic Replenishing missing or lost volumes on the face with gels of a special, denser composition (for example, delicately adding volume to the cheekbones makes the face more open and fresh, it “lifts”). With a decrease in skin elasticity and tone, the appearance of excessive shadows and folds on the face, loss of clarity of the oval.
Bioreinforcement Restoring facial clarity and pronounced contour. It’s as if the face is “stitched” according to a special pattern with an active substance, and the resulting connective tissue will become a kind of frame. Gravitational ptosis, when facial tissues gradually “slide” down under the influence of gravity, forming an unclear line of the lower jaw and chin.
Fillers Hyaluronic acid of special concentration to fill wrinkles. For pronounced nasolabial folds and facial wrinkles.
Lip fillers Correction and filling of lip volume. With age, lips narrow. Hyaluronic acid allows you to perfectly eliminate any cosmetic imperfections - narrow, disproportionate, different sizes, unclear lip contour, irregular shape.

Injections of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid are an excellent alternative to surgery; it is a minimally invasive and highly effective technique that allows you to combat various manifestations of age on the face - it is both a means of correction and correction, and excellent prevention.

Cosmetics review

Today on the shelves of pharmacies and cosmetic stores you can find a lot of products that contain hyaluronic acid. Let's look at the most popular of them:

  • For the youngest cosmetics users (from 25 years old), L'Oreal Derma creams and serums are suitable. The L'Oreal Derma Genesis line includes day and night creams, a product for the eyelids and skin around the eyes, as well as a concentrated serum. For dry and mature skin, the manufacturer produces products that also contain the Pro-Xylane component, which enhances the effect of the active substance and increases collagen production.
  • The domestic manufacturer of cosmetics with hyaluronic acid, Laura, offers an inexpensive but effective serum. In addition, this line is represented by lotions, mousses, sprays and masks.
  • Another Russian brand, Librederm, is popular among middle-aged women. Libriderm serum is perfectly absorbed, has a tightening effect, and relieves inflammation.
  • Merz cream has a foamy consistency, so it is not suitable as a base for decorative cosmetics. But it does an excellent job of saturating cells with oxygen and restoring collagen production.
  • Cosmetologists recommend paying attention to products that produce creams and serums with organic hyaluronic acid.
  • Cosmetics has released a new Premium Ialuron Treatment series, which includes an essence with high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, a fluid serum and a 24-hour cream. They use chamomile extract, saccharide isomerate, almond oil and panthenol as additional components.
  • For women over 50, a good choice would be the Japanese serum for wrinkles around the eyes “Shiseido”. In addition to hyaluronate, it also contains medicinal Japanese plants and algae.
  • Another domestic one (Natura Siberica). She produces products with hyaluronic acid for daytime care for aging skin.

Photo gallery: creams, ointments and serums containing hyaluronic acid


The L'Oreal Derma Genesis cosmetics line produces products for young skin


Libriderm cosmetics are one of the most popular in Russia


Merz brand mousse nourishes skin cells with oxygen


Natura Siberika cream is suitable for daytime skin care

Application of hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid injections in cosmetology are traditionally used to moisturize the skin and correct age-related changes. The so-called contour plastic (non-surgical facelift) makes it possible to obtain an almost instant desired result. The result is noticeable already during the procedure.

Over the next two weeks, intensive production of elastin and collagen occurs, as a result of which the skin is even more tightened and wrinkles disappear. The effect of the drug is designed for 6-12 months (taking into account the individual characteristics of the body). There are cases where the effect was observed for two years.

The main feature of the application is that hyaluronic acid for the face stimulates the body’s independent production of connective tissue fibers. Even after the drug stops working, the process slows down, but does not stop for some time. This is what can explain such a long-lasting effect.

How to use

Rule number one, guaranteeing the desired result, is that all procedures are carried out by a cosmetologist in a specially equipped office. Hyaluronic acid injections for the face cannot be performed independently. In this case, you risk getting improper distribution of the drug under the skin, which will lead to undesirable manifestations (asymmetry, persistent swelling and even distortions).

Hyaluronic acid preparations are available in two forms:

  • Highly concentrated (fillers). Used for facial contouring, as well as for local use - to fill nasolabial folds, eliminate asymmetry, enlarge or correct lips, and fill scars. The effect is instant.
  • Low-concentrated (as part of vitamin preparations). The use of hyaluronic acid in this case contributes to intensive skin hydration and overall health. The injection sites are evenly distributed over the face, neck and décolleté. The procedures are carried out in several stages. After each of which there is a gradual and stable improvement in the condition of the dermis.

The doctor determines how many manipulations will be necessary in your case. As a rule, biorevitalization procedures and installation of fillers are carried out in parallel, since the drugs have different functional orientations.

Reviews

Lately I've been trying more and more new Korean skincare products and my latest acquisition was this serum. I bought it at Lunifera IM, price 850 rubles. It is located in a standard ampoule bottle with a pipette. I have oily skin and break out from time to time. I am 26 years old and so far there are no serious age-related changes in my skin, but recently I began to notice that my skin began to lack elasticity, plus my complexion has become somewhat dull. I've been using this serum for almost a month now and I'm delighted with the results! It has neither color nor odor, does not leave any unpleasant sensations on the skin, and is consumed quite economically. After application, the skin becomes very soft and velvety. Now I notice that the skin has begun to look refreshed and the pores on my forehead have shrunk, although in theory the serum does not promise such an effect, but for some reason it worked like that on my skin. No rashes appeared from it, I noticed that my skin became more toned and smooth. I am very pleased, I will order more!

Marianna2205

https://irecommend.ru/content/chudesnye-svoistva-gialuronovoi-kisloty-otkryla-dlya-sebya-s-pomoshchyu-syvorotki

I saw an advertisement for a long time and heard a lot about LIBRE DERM, saw it at the pharmacy and couldn’t pass it by, bought HYALURONIC MOISTURIZING CREAM. I read that hyaluronic acid is very important for preserving the beauty and prolonging the youth of the skin. The cream is white, non-greasy, quickly absorbed. The smell is pleasant, not pungent. When applied to the skin it quickly disappears. Prices from 400 rubles to 500 rubles. Sold only in pharmacies, but not in all. The cream is packaged in a beautiful box, there are instructions and ingredients on it, and detailed instructions inside. There is a dispenser, very convenient, it squeezes out a small amount of cream. I apply this cream to my face, neck and décolleté. The skin became noticeably moisturized. The tightness of my skin is especially noticeable on my neck. I think this product will stay on my shelves for a long time. I didn't regret purchasing it. I will definitely buy more products from this series and products from this company. This product is suitable for all skin types.

Nadunchik

https://irecommend.ru/content/ne-predstavlyayu-kak-ya-ranshe-bez-nego-zhila

I ordered hyaluronic gel from Ozone when I placed an order for books. On the one hand, there were doubts about the effectiveness of this drug due to its inexpensive cost (about 60 rubles for 3 ml), but on the other hand, this is not the hyaluronic acid that is used in injections, but the hyaluronic acid that is found in most cosmetic preparations (not particularly expensive, by the way), containing hyaluronic acid in the form of sodium hyaluronate. I used this gel in its pure form - I liked the effect - the gel is quickly absorbed, the skin looks fresher and more elastic, I add it to homemade masks - there is a light refreshing and light moisturizing effect. But the real result of pure hyaluronic acid (namely, 1 molecule of hyaluronic acid retains 1000 molecules of water around itself, due to which volume, elasticity and super-hydration are achieved) - of course, it would be simply ridiculous to expect from this gel. But for a change you can buy this product.

Antuanna

https://irecommend.ru/content/dlya-raznoobraziya-ukhodovykh-sredstv-iv-sostave-domashnikh-masok-foto-i-sostav

Mesotherapy with a mesoscooter

Recently, anti-aging serums with hyaluronic acid have appeared on sale, which are used with the obligatory use of a mesoscooter. Ultra-thin titanium needles (their approximate number on the roller is about 200) pierce the skin, the serum penetrates through the smallest holes into the deep layers of the dermis and begins to act. After a month of constant use, manufacturers promise a noticeable effect.

Judging by consumer reviews, the result in most cases is noticeable as a slight refreshment of the facial skin. The drugs are not an alternative to salon therapy, as advertised.

The complexes are intended for home use with mandatory observance of disinfection rules. In particular, after use it is recommended to wipe the face with chlorhexidine.

Hyaluronic acid in cosmetology

According to experts, this is the best means of modern cosmetology, allowing you to do without surgical intervention. The undoubted benefits of injections are manifested in the instant effect when carrying out contour plastic surgery or biorevitalization procedures.

In this case it is observed:

  • even out skin color;
  • narrowing of pores;
  • noticeable increase in elasticity;
  • disappearance of deep and fine wrinkles.

But the main result can be called “minus five to seven” years away. The contour of the face becomes clearer and more defined, bags and blackness under the eyes disappear.

How to replenish the stock?

If the body produces insufficient amounts of hyaluronic acid, it becomes necessary to replenish its reserves from the outside. Cosmetics containing this substance come to the rescue. Manufacturers of skin care products produce all kinds of creams, ointments, serums, mousses, sprays, masks and gels with this active substance. Each product acts differently, but they all have one task - to deliver the active substance to the skin, and therefore moisturize and rejuvenate it.

Cosmetics with hyaluronic acid are the best moisturizer for skin care

The action of hyaluronic acid in creams is based on two principles:

  1. Creating a light, breathable film on the surface of the skin that protects the skin from moisture loss and corrects the oval of the face.
  2. Delivery of acid molecules into the skin, which attract and retain water, improve microcirculation and create that same elastic “cushion”.

Cosmetics containing hyaluronate act in different ways. This is due to the size of the molecules that make up the serum or cream. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid can penetrate only into the epidermis. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid penetrates the dermis. Accordingly, high molecular weight moisturizes and increases the firmness and elasticity of the skin, and low molecular weight smoothes it. Professional modern luxury cosmetics contain three-level hyaluronic acid: high-, medium- and low-molecular. It is with the help of such means that a noticeable rejuvenating effect can be achieved.

Cosmetics with hyaluronic acid have a number of advantages over other care products:

  • improvement in skin condition after the first use;
  • absence of allergic and inflammatory reactions;
  • protecting the skin from external influences and simultaneously restoring internal water balance;
  • accelerated collagen production;
  • long-term hydration due to the formation of a water gel in the dermis.

After several weeks of using such cosmetics, the skin takes on a fresh, radiant appearance, unevenness is smoothed out, and the texture becomes soft and velvety.

The rejuvenation effect does not last forever. It is gradually lost if you stop using cosmetics with sodium hyaluronate.

Advantages of injections with hyaluronate-based preparations

  1. Hydration, both of the entire face and its individual zones;
  2. Lifting effect – tightened oval and clear contours of the face;
  3. Fresh and radiant appearance of the skin, improvement of its condition - pigmentation decreases, scars and cicatrices are reduced, pores are narrowed, sebum secretion is normalized;
  4. Improvement at the cellular level;
  5. Reduction of age-related appearances and their prevention. Patients who regularly resort to hyaluronic acid injections much later encounter typical changes characteristic of a particular period of life;
  6. Stimulates the skin's production of its own collagen and elastin.

Procedure

Application in cosmetology is carried out by injection method with preliminary anesthesia. The hyaluronic acid procedure in cosmetology takes about 30-40 minutes. The cosmetologist’s task is to correctly determine the injection points, the amount of the injected drug, the angle and depth of the puncture. The injection site is lightly massaged with your fingers in the direction of the desired location of the HA. The gel should be distributed evenly. The active substance attracts a large amount of water, and the collagen-elastin framework becomes more full. The skin tightens, becomes more elastic and fresh. In some cases, additional facial injections of hyaluronic acid are required for correction. During repeated procedures, the doctor eliminates minor defects that remained after the first manipulation.

The result of hyaluronic injection procedures

Of course, there cannot be a single outcome for patients. All people have different problems and skin conditions, age and existing diseases, they are exposed to one or another physical activity and exposure to ultraviolet radiation (this affects the resorption of hyaluronic acid). Of course, the manufacturer plays a role, as does the density of the injected gel. In general, you can count on results within six months to a year, sometimes more. Then it is advisable to repeat the injections, since the acid is removed from the body. In each specific case, a specialist selects the appropriate type of injection therapy. It must take into account the severity of the problem, the age and needs of the patient. For example, a 30-year-old patient needs 1-2 procedures once a year, while a 40-45-year-old woman may need 5-8 sessions with a 2-week interval for the full effect and stimulation of the use of the body’s internal resources. For aging skin, it is good to do one-time maintenance treatments once every 3-4 months.


Contraindications for use

The latest generation of biosynthesized hyaluronic acid in cosmetic preparations is highly purified, so reactions to it are very rare. However, the possibility of rejection or rejection by the body cannot be completely excluded, so there are certain contraindications for its use:

  • acute inflammatory processes on the skin are a relative contraindication; after completing a course of treatment, injections are not prohibited, but post-acne and acne generally require treatment with hyaluronic acid-based drugs;
  • oncological and autoimmune diseases;
  • pregnancy and lactation;
  • recent laser and chemical peeling;
  • acute herpes and fungal infections, keloidosis;
  • chronic diseases in the acute stage;
  • individual intolerance to the components of the drug. In any case, a consultation with a professional cosmetologist is necessary before starting the course - he collects anamnesis and advises the patient.

By the way, in the case of hyaluronic acid it is easier to prevent negative consequences. If an allergic reaction or other side effects are detected, the doctor injects hyaluronidase, a special enzyme that destroys hyaluronate polymers exactly in the problem area. This is one of the undoubted advantages of the drug - the risk of complications is minimal.

Rehabilitation and care after hyaluronic injections

Despite the fact that this is a minimally invasive intervention, visual traces are still possible. With deeper injections, hematomas, swelling, redness (not always) appear, and the injection sites are painful for some time.

After the procedures it is not recommended:

  • visit a bathhouse, sauna, or take a hot bath for at least a week;
  • be in active sun (you should use creams with filters);
  • do not use decorative cosmetics for at least a day, and scrubs and toners containing alcohol for a week;
  • avoid physical activity.

But all the efforts made will soon pay off handsomely. After all the swelling subsides and the redness goes away, the appearance of the skin will improve significantly - it will shine with a healthy shine and beauty, the face will look younger and fresher. Modern professional care cannot be imagined without hyaluronic acid, which has proven its effectiveness in cosmetology in practice.

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